We offer a full line of health maintenance services from your pet including exams, preventative vaccinations, rabies shots, tags and licenses, worming, nutritional planning and a full line of nutrition products to keep your pet healthy. 

Heartworms in Cats:Heartworms infect cats as well as dogs.  They often have no symptoms but over time can do significant damage to your cats heart.  As detection is nearly impossible in the early stages of the worms growth it is important to use preventative medication to avoid heartworm infections heartworms is secreted.  The young take about 7 months to mature and can grow up to 30 cm in your cats heart.

Cause:  Heartworms are transmitted from one animal to another via mosquitoes.  First the mosquito bites (sucks blood from) an infected animal thereby ingesting young heartworms and then bites a second animal (your cat for instance) during which silva from the mosquito bearing the young heartworms is secreted.  The young take about 7 months to mature and can grow up to 30 cm in your cats heart.

Symptoms:  Some cats will not show any symptoms at all.  Others might be just little less active than others (this may appear simply to be laziness on the part of your cat).  If symptoms do develop this does not generally occur until the worms have begun reaching maturity (For example after 7 months of the worms living in them)..  The most common signs are coughing and rapid breathing which can also be indicative of some other illness. Other signs may be vomiting and weight loss which may also be indicative of other illnesses.  If untreated heartworms can kill your cat.

Detection:  Blood tests that your veterinarian may perform on your cat to detect heartworms are the heartworm antibody test and the heartworm antigen test. Blood can also be tested for the presence of microfilaria or for their level of eosinophils. One thing to keep in mind is that while these tests are 99% accurate if there are adult female worms in your cat, that these tests often show no results if the worms have not matured yet or if all the worms are male.  Basically this means that a negative test does not mean your cat does not have worms, it simply means that you cat does not have any detectable adult female heartworms.  Therefore if your cat has been untreated for a long period of time it is important to have a followup visit to retest for worms.

Other test that may be performed are x-ray, angiogram or ultrasound

Treatment:  There are no drug approved treatment options available for cats. However, some veterinarians may use a drug designed for dogs but this option may have devastating results. The only other option available at this point is to treat the symptoms and hope for the best.   This is why preventative medications are so important.

Prevention:  Monthly preventative medications and annual heartworm testing. Please feel free to call us to set up and appointment.

We offer pet exams and all kinds of pet services.  We pretty much do it all.  Please  call or contact us  for information or to set up and appointment. 

Suggested vaccines for cats are feline panleukopenia, feline viral rhinotracheitis, feline calicivirus every three years. Rabies vaccine frequency depends on type of vaccine given. Feline Leukemia vaccine should be given annually for cats at risk.

In Collier County: All cats must be licensed and vaccinated for rabies by three months of age and repeated annually.

In Collier County: $10 license fee for spayed/neutered cats or unaltered  cats less than one years of age. $30 license fee for unaltered cats over one years of age.

In Lee County: All cats must be licensed and vaccinated for rabies by three months of age and repeated annually or every three years depending on the vaccine used and the previous vaccination of the cat.

In Lee County: $8 license fee for Juvenile license ( cats under 12 months of age) $8 license fee for one-year license for sterilized cats. $15 license fee for three-year license for sterilized cats. $35 license fee for one-year for unsterilized cats. $65 license fee for three-year license for unsterilized cats .

The key to training is to make sure that whatever you want your cat to do is exceedingly rewarding and pleasurable. 

Sometimes we unintentionally reward our cats for obnoxious behavior. A common complaint is that the cat pounces on the owner at five in the morning, meowing up a storm and generally being a pest. What do the owners do? They get up and feed the cat, play with him or let him outside. Kitty has learned that his behavior gets him exactly what he wants.

Many owners become frustrated because they can’t catch the cat in the act of the crime, so instead they show the cat the evidence (usually a wet spot on the carpet or pieces of shredded drapery) and discipline the cat at that time. A common training practice is grabbing the cat, pointing out the wet spot, then dragging him to the litter box and forcing him to dig in the litter. What the cat is learning is that being reached for by the owner is a bad experience and that the litter box is a torture chamber. It is usually difficult if not impossible to catch the cat in the act because most cats have already learned that being caught is bad news.

Reprimands simply do not work when training your cat. If you catch kitty in the act, he will only misbehave when you are not around. If you punish the cat later, he will not associate the reprimand with the crime. In either case, the misbehavior continues. Some cats misbehave just to get attention and the attention is enough of a reward to cause kitty to continue his ways. So what do we do?

First:Stop all reprimands and punishment, no matter what your cat is doing.

Second:Set kitty up to succeed in performing those behaviors you want her to learn so she can be rewarded.

Third:Set up kitty’s environment so that those behaviors you don’t want him to learn are not rewarding.

1. Stop all reprimands. Concentrate on making your relationship fun, rewarding, playful and interesting. Sometimes this change alone will solve your problem. Cats are known to become overly active and destructive when bored. Daily play sessions and relaxing massages help calm kitty down. Cats that feel neglected will often stop using their litter box. If you schedule regular sessions to give kitty your undivided attention and to play games with him, even litter box problems can disappear almost overnight.
2. The most effective method of cat training is through rewards, so the second step is setting up the cat’s environment so he can succeed. This will give you the opportunity to reward and praise him for good behavior.

Maybe you are into training your cat to jump through a hoop; maybe you just want him to stop climbing the drapes. Whatever the case, remember that cats learn best through the use of rewards, praise and positive reinforcement. Set kitty up to succeed. Set yourself up to succeed with your cat. It works. And it’s a lot more fun when training succeeds for both of you.

First and foremost, we always recommend that you regularly have your cat examined by your veterinarian. These regular check-ups ensure there are no hidden health problems that could possibly be aggravated by the activity of training.

Cats, like people, are individuals. Each cat will react differently when the training begins. Your cat may ignore you when you begin to train him, or he may be very curious and eager.

Whatever your cat’s personality, here are some pointers that will make the process easier and more enjoyable for both of you:
Train your cat before he has his regular meal.

• A food reward won’t be very enticing to your cat if he has just finished dinner. Do not withhold food from your cat to make him eager to learn. An overly hungry cat will be an annoyed cat. And cats, like people on a diet, often lose their appetite when their food is cut back.
• Use your cat’s favorite food as a reward. This could be a little bit of his regular cat food, or a special flavor or treat. (Always count in the training treats when you’r emeasuring how much to feed your cat in a day.)
• In the beginning, train your cat in a quiet environment, free from distractions. Training your cat in the living room with the radio or the television set on will make the process difficult, if not impossible.
• Keep the training sessions short. End them before your cat gets bored or tired, and he will be more eager for the next session. We recommend 10- or 15-minute training sessions.
• Keep the training sessions the same—same trainer, same behaviors, same commands and signals, and same reward.
• Keep your behavior focused and consistent. Your cat will be confused if your behavior or commands change during training.
• Stay with it. Training your cat once a month won’t provide results. Once you begin, try to spend 10 or 15 minutes every day training your cat.

Let’s take a look at litter box training as an example. A cat’s physical system is very regular. If you control the input, you are also in control of the output. Kitty should be on a regular feeding schedule so he will have a corresponding regular output schedule. Adjust his feeding time so you can be present when he needs to go. About 15 minutes prior to when you know he will need to go, take him to his litter box room. Because you and kitty are locked in the litter box room, he doesn’t have the option of going on the carpet in the hall or on your bed. His only choice is the litter box. When he uses it, praise the daylights out of him! Give him a juicy chunk of salmon or another treat that is reserved for this wonderful performance. Until you’re sure that litter box training is successful, don’t give him free access to the rest of your home when you know his bladder and bowels are full.

The most common reason a cat will not use its litter box…

Because the litter box is dirty: from the cat’s viewpoint, not yours. Cats often react to any type of stress by suddenly urinating or defecating outside the litter box. The stress may be caused by a new cat in the neighborhood; children home on vacation; too many cats in the house; your going away on vacation or a new piece of furniture. Urinary tract problems also cause cats to urinate in places other than the litter box. Any sudden change in elimination habits should be discussed with your veterinarian.

Prevent House Soiling:Until your cat is reliably house trained, she should not have free run of your home. If your cat continually makes mistakes, the behavior can simply become a habit. Punishing a cat after the fact teaches her to be afraid of you. Scolding and then taking the cat to her litter box after she has already eliminated teaches her to associate the litter box with punishment. Basically, punishment doesn’t work with cats: prevention and praise for getting it right are the keys to training. When you leave the house for any length of time, your cat should be confined to a single room, preferably one with non-porous floors, such as a kitchen, bathroom, utility room, basement or garage. Provide your cat with a bowl of water and a warm place to sleep at one end of the room and a freshly cleaned litter box at the other end. Until the house soiling has been cured, your cat should have a regular feeding schedule so she will develop a corresponding elimination schedule.

The Litter Box:Your cat does not simply need a litter box – she needs a clean litter box with fresh litter. Your cat will be inhibited from using her litter box if it smells of urine. Think about it from the cat’s viewpoint. When she soils your dining room carpet, the area is immediately and thoroughly cleaned. Given the choice between a regularly cleaned place and a litter box that gets changed only once or twice a week, your cat will naturally prefer the carpet.

The litter box must be cleaned daily. The old litter must be discarded and replaced with about 1 1/2 inches of fresh litter. Rinse the litter box thoroughly with water. Adding a little vinegar or lemon juice to the water will help neutralize the odor of the cat’s urine. Do not use ammonia; this will make the litter box smell worse.

Make sure that the litter box is in an appropriate place. Cats do not like to soil the areas close to their sleeping or eating areas, so place the litter box some distance away. However, do not place the litter box in an area that is too inaccessible. For example, if the litter box is placed in the bathroom, make sure the door cannot swing shut preventing the cat from getting to it. If the cat is new to your home, she may go into hiding for a few days so place a litter box close to her hiding place.

Some additional factor may be inhibiting your cat from using her litter box, so put down an extra one in a different location. If there is more than one cat in the house, have several litter boxes available.

Housetraining Success: Reward for Using the Litter Box

In order to reward your cat for eliminating in her litter box, you must be there at the time she eliminates. You need to have some idea of when your cat urinates and defecates. Most cats, especially kittens, will eliminate shortly after waking; after eating; and after exercise.

To help you predict when your cat will eliminate, feed her at regular times. If the input is on a regular schedule, the output will follow likewise. Before feeding your cat, spend ten to fifteen minutes playing with her. Then put down the food, allow her fifteen minutes to eat and then clear up any leftovers. After your cat has eaten, it is time for another gentle play session. Call her to her litter box from a variety of places around your house, especially areas where she has soiled. When your cat gets to the box, scratch the litter to get her interested. Similarly, throughout the day, whenever your cat has been asleep for over two hours, wake her up and call her to the litter box. Encourage your cat to hop into the litter box, praise her when she does so. Even if she does not eliminate, she is learning that the litter box is a great, CLEAN place to be. This is especially important for cats that are now avoiding the litter box because they assume it is always dirty or because they associate it with being punished. If your cat does eliminate, praise her in a gentle voice. Once she has finished, gently stroke her, give her a treat and take the time to tell her how pleased you are with her behavior.

The third step is setting up the cat’s environment so that his misbehavior is not a rewarding experience. Let’s take a look at furniture scratching as an example. While making kitty’s scratching post fun, rewarding and exciting, the training process also requires you to make the furniture unattractive as a clawing item. Instead of you telling the cat to avoid the furniture, let the furniture itself tell the cat to stay away. It’s up to you to find something your cat does not like. Each cat is different. However, most cats don’t like to snag their claws when scratching, so you might try draping some netting or tulle over the furniture. Some cats don’t like the feel of aluminum foil or two-sided sticky tape. A mild menthol or citrus scent repels some cats. Once your cat realizes that these places are not fun to scratch or sit on, and she regularly has wonderful times at her scratching post, the problem of inappropriate scratching will disappear.